Day 5 was used to take a break or catch-up. We know schedules and sewing speeds vary and didn’t want anyone to feel rushed.
Day 6 is here and we are almost done. Today we are going to be sewing on the underbust elastic, hemming/adding the waistband, and stitching down the back straps. If applicable you will also add your nursing clips and cutting slits for nursing access.
I like to do the underbust elastic before stitching down the straps. Although there is a cut chart on page 34, it is a good idea to measure your underbust and then cut your elastic 1-2″ shorter than the measurement. Take elastic and sew in a circle, overlapping the ends by 1/2”.
Mark quarters of the elastic and also the bottom of the bra. Pin/clip the elastic to WRONG SIDE of the bottom of the bra. Sew elastic to the edge of bra with a stretch stitch, zig-zag, or serger, stretching only the elastic (DO NOT stretch the fabric) between pins.
If using a serger remember to turn off the knife blade.
Fold up the elastic so it is encased.
Topstitch close to the top edge of the elastic with a stretch stitch, zig-zag, or coverstitch.
Now try on your Agility. The under arm of the bra should be 1.5-2″ from your under arm crease and the Bra Back should be just below your shoulder blades. Shorten the back/straps if necessary. For T-back option, center the bottom of the ‘T’ to the top of the back bra band and attach with a stretch stitch, zig-zag , double needle or coverstitch. For Strappy back option, mark strap placement so it is comfortable, but not too loose. The outside (underarm side) straps when crossed will become the inside straps. If making the tank, they should be placed so they line up with sides of the overlay (or about an inch and a half away from center). Inside (neckline straps, should be placed about an inch to outside of other strap placement (or where you find it most comfortable).
Sew in place, going forward and backward several times.
If you are doing a tank or dress, now is the time add the waistband or hem. For hemmed versions, fold hem up 3/4” and sew with a zig-zag, stretch stitch, or coverstitch.
For the waistband, cut a length of fabric 6″ long x the width listed in the chart on page 37. Fold in half with right sides together and stitch the short ends together. Fold so wrong sides are together and seam is on the inside.
Mark quarters on both the band and the bottom of the tank/dress. Slide band over the tank/dress, so that right sides are together and raw edges of the band meet the raw edge of the tank/dress. Match up quarter points and sew.
For nursing versions, take the strap on your nursing layer and guide it through the clip opening. Fold down and sew back and forth a few times to secure. Try on your tank/dress to determine the placement of the clip on the top portion of the bra. Mark the spot. Hand sew the clip to the bra using your mark as a guide.
All that is left is to determine where you want your openings for nursing access. Mark either slits or circles on the main front bra piece. Knit fabrics should not fray so it is not necessary to reinforce the openings, however you can certainly do so if you wish.
Check-in on the day 6 post by searching #5oo4AgilityDay6
Make sure you check out the Day 7 post for details on how to enter your completed Agility for a chance to win one a prize.