The Nancy Raglan Top and Dress is one of my all-time favorite patterns. I also love a bishop sleeve, so why not combine the two? I am obsessed with how it turned out and need to make many, many more!
If you don’t already have it, you can get the Nancy Raglan pattern HERE.
Beginning Sleeve Adjustments
Before any calculations, you will need to make sure the raglan sleeve is the correct length for you. The current version of Nancy has four different sleeve length options: short, 3/4, long, and extra long, plus the option of adding cuffs. There is not currently a separate cut line for the cuff option, so you will need to make sure you account for that added length.
- To find your starting sleeve length, hold the pattern piece on top of your arm with the top curved edge along your shoulder/neckline.
- With your finger, a pencil, or a friend helping you, mark on the pattern where you want the sleeve to hit when finished.
- Once attached, the cuff will add 4 more inches so you will need to remove that additional length from the pattern piece. (Leave an extra 3/8″ to account for the seam allowance.)
- Use the lengthening and shortening guide in the tutorial to make the length adjustments.
- Tape extra paper along the outer edge of both sides of the sleeve from the armscye corner points down to the wrist edge, or trace your pattern piece onto a new piece of paper large enough to extend both sides outwards.
- Measure across the pattern piece at the armscye corners and note the measurement. (Mine=19″)
- Multiply that number by 1.25 to find the measurement you will need to widen the wrist end to. (Mine=23.75)
- Now that you know how wide the wrist end will need to be, measure the original pattern wrist edge and mark an equal distance away from each wrist corner so that the distance from one point to the other equals your finished end measurement that you previously determined.
- Use a straight edge to connect the two marked points to the bottom edge.
Draw the New Sleeve
- On one side of the sleeve, draw a slowly curving line connecting the corner of the armscye to the corner of the extended wrist line.
- Mark along that side where the new sleeve is 1″ away from the original sleeve, then 2″ away, etc. until you are near the bottom of the sleeve.
- Mark the same increments directly across to the opposite side of the sleeve and label each point.
- At each of the increment markings, mark the same distance away from the original sleeve edge on the opposite side of the sleeve to give you a guide to trace along.
- Connect the armscye corner to the bottom extended edge connecting the increment markings along the way.
- Cut out your new pattern piece.
Cut out Pieces
- Follow the tutorial to cut out all necessary pieces, using the adjusted sleeve pattern piece to cut 2 mirrored images.
- You will also need to cut 2 cuffs
- Use the tutorial to attach the sleeves to the front and back bodices as well as sewing the side and arm seams.
- Place a pin at the halfway point of each wrist opening.
- Sew both cuffs along the long edge, fold them in half and pin at their halfway points.
- Run two lines of gathering stitches around the wrist opening of each sleeve. One just inside the seam allowance and one just outside.
- Pull the bobbin threads until the wrist openings are the same size as the cuff openings.
- Line up the pinned halfway points on the cuffs and sleeve and pin them together.
- Add more pins along the wrist opening if desired.
- Use a stretch stitch or serger to sew them together.
- Remove any remaining gathering threads.
- Finish the hem and neckband by following the tutorial.